I'm a GIA-Trained Pearl Specialist. Here's How to Spot a Fake Pearl in 30 Seconds

Every week someone asks me, "Are these real?" Sometimes it's a strand from a grandmother's jewelry box. Sometimes it's a "great deal" found online. As a pearl specialist who studied at GIA, I can usually tell within 30 seconds, and after reading this, you'll be able to as well.

1. The Tooth Test (Yes, Really)

Gently rub the pearl against the edge of your front teeth. A real pearl feels slightly gritty, like fine sand, because of its natural layers of nacre. A fake pearl, usually glass or plastic with a coating, feels perfectly smooth. It's the fastest test there is, and it doesn't harm the pearl.

2. Look at the Luster

Real pearls glow from within. Hold one under soft light and you'll see a sharp, mirror-like reflection and a gentle depth of color. Fakes tend to look flat or glassy, with the shine sitting on the surface. Our Japanese Akoya pearls are prized for exactly this: a bright, crisp luster that catches light every time you move.

3. Check for Tiny Imperfections

Nature isn't perfect, and that's the point. Real pearls often have small marks, slight variations in shape, or subtle differences from pearl to pearl on a strand. If every pearl is identical and flawless, be suspicious.

4. Feel the Weight and Temperature

Real pearls feel cool against your skin at first and warm up slowly. They also feel a little heavier than you'd expect for their size. Plastic imitations are light and feel room-temperature right away.

5. Look Closely at the Drill Hole

With a magnifier (or your phone camera zoomed in), look at the edge of the drill hole. On a real pearl, you'll see a crisp edge and sometimes the layers of nacre. On a fake, the coating often chips or peels around the hole.

What to Look For When You Buy

Knowing a pearl is real is step one. Quality is step two. I always look at luster, surface, shape, and the setting. A beautiful pearl deserves solid gold, not plating that wears off. That's why every Made by Petit piece is set in solid 14K gold and handmade in NYC.

If you want an everyday piece to start with, the Japanese Akoya Pearl Pendant Necklace is the one I wear most. For a little sparkle, try the Smoky Quartz & Akoya Pearl Drop Earrings, or the Smile Ring, a small reminder to wear joy every day.

Pearls Are Meant to Be Worn

Real pearls aren't meant to sit in a box waiting for a special occasion. Wear them with jeans, to work, to coffee. Starting today, not someday.

Shop our Akoya pearl collection →

Have a pearl you're not sure about? Send me a message. I'm always happy to help.